How do you make gif animations through video or pictures?
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- Gramps, Jr.
- Posts: 4297
- Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 12:14 am
- Location: New Zealand
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- Gramps, Jr.
- Posts: 4297
- Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 12:14 am
- Location: New Zealand
My first attempt at editing, I hope the cropping worked out. This is a glitch making jack look like a giant, and then I fall on him and crush him. There is one picture at the end that looks weird so it stretches the gif, making it look like it never stops, so I hope you like that part as well. Since the cropping wasn't exact, the camera seems to shake. Here it is:
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- Gramps, Jr.
- Posts: 4297
- Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 12:14 am
- Location: New Zealand
Szs315 obviously blew Jack up before dropping on him, which will turn him into a giant when viewed from the correct distance. In fact, blowing him up may be what shot T into the air.
Did you drop the camera first?
I used to pile up 6 or 7 dead bodies and then blow them one after another to shoot T into orbit. It's a lot of fun (unless you forget your H key).
BTW, do you have motion blur or something turned on? All your images look out of focus near the edge.
The cropping is actually pretty cool: a tall narrow image is kinda unusual.
As for cropping all in the same place, BWS, in PS you put all your layers together and align them, then crop. It works quite well, and easily.
Did you drop the camera first?
I used to pile up 6 or 7 dead bodies and then blow them one after another to shoot T into orbit. It's a lot of fun (unless you forget your H key).
BTW, do you have motion blur or something turned on? All your images look out of focus near the edge.
The cropping is actually pretty cool: a tall narrow image is kinda unusual.
As for cropping all in the same place, BWS, in PS you put all your layers together and align them, then crop. It works quite well, and easily.
I've made a couple of Matrix style stop-action camera-swing GIFs, one with the camera pivoting around a thrown knife, first from the perspective of the thrower, then pivoting around to behind the grateful recipient.
The knife flies in slightly slower than normal speed (so you can see it), then hangs motionless as the camera moves, then starts up and buries itself in the victim in a flash, which sends him flying off-screen.
I've also done a Cannon Leg the same way.
The problem is that it's nearly impossible to keep the camera in a flat plane as it pivots. It moves up and down slightly no matter how careful you are, and the motion induces nausea (in me anyway). They just weren't up to my exacting standards.
I've toyed with making a frame or something to keep the mouse in a line, but never gotten around to it. I'll post what I've got if you'd like to see it.
I've also toyed with the 3-D process. The actual separation between shots should be more like 3 inches, or 1.5 degrees, which is the distance between your eyes.
I've done this with line drawings, and you can use either the red-blue method (which requires special glasses) or the newer grey-scale or polarized method (also need glasses), but both require software I haven't bothered to acquire. I don't like the color problems they introduce.
There's another method that requires either a mirror (similar to a stereopticon method) or crossing your eyes and focusing. It's not hard; easier than Magic Eye pictures, for instance.
I made a couple of these, and they worked OK, but still not up to my standards, partially because of the mouse motion problem. I might try the method Jeff suggested; with a fast enough frame delay it might work OK also.
The knife flies in slightly slower than normal speed (so you can see it), then hangs motionless as the camera moves, then starts up and buries itself in the victim in a flash, which sends him flying off-screen.
I've also done a Cannon Leg the same way.
The problem is that it's nearly impossible to keep the camera in a flat plane as it pivots. It moves up and down slightly no matter how careful you are, and the motion induces nausea (in me anyway). They just weren't up to my exacting standards.
I've toyed with making a frame or something to keep the mouse in a line, but never gotten around to it. I'll post what I've got if you'd like to see it.
I've also toyed with the 3-D process. The actual separation between shots should be more like 3 inches, or 1.5 degrees, which is the distance between your eyes.
I've done this with line drawings, and you can use either the red-blue method (which requires special glasses) or the newer grey-scale or polarized method (also need glasses), but both require software I haven't bothered to acquire. I don't like the color problems they introduce.
There's another method that requires either a mirror (similar to a stereopticon method) or crossing your eyes and focusing. It's not hard; easier than Magic Eye pictures, for instance.
I made a couple of these, and they worked OK, but still not up to my standards, partially because of the mouse motion problem. I might try the method Jeff suggested; with a fast enough frame delay it might work OK also.